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WWF Polar Bear Expedition Diary
Margaret Williams, leader for WWF's Bering Sea & Kamchatka ecoregion, traveled to Chukotka, the northeastern most corner of Siberia on an expedition in April 2007. With several Russian and American colleagues, Margaret and her team traveled over 700 miles across the roadless, snow-covered Chukotka Peninsula to reach the small village of Vankarem, north of the Arctic Circle on the Chukchi Sea. The expedition is part of an ambitious effort to protect and study polar bears and address an increasing problem caused by climate change -- conflict between polar bears and humans.
Join Margaret on her journey across the vast and frozen tundra, and learn more about WWF's work in the Bering Sea & Kamchatka ecoregion.
Part 9: The US - Russia Polar Bear Treaty | Part 10: The road back | Part 11: Spotting reindeer | Part 12: Anadyr | Part 13: Last day in Chukotka
Part 3: 
The Arctic Circle
At 6:00 AM the vezdekhod rolls to a stop. We burst out of our dark, den-like vehicle, and are blasted by gusts of bitter cold air. We are at the Arctic Circle!
The Arctic Circle, also known as the Polar Circle, is defined in several ways. Geographically, the "line" is drawn at the latitude of 66° 32' N but biologically, it's often the tree line that is used to delineate the Arctic. Politically, the Arctic is made up of eight nations that encircle the top of the globe. Russia, of course, occupies the largest portion of the Arctic, followed by Canada and the US.
Of course, all of these "lines" are invisible. However, here in this spot is one of the rare places on the globe where one can actually "see" the boundary. In the dim light of the morning, we see a huge metal arch in front of us, announcing our arrival at the Arctic Circle.
The word "Arctic" finds its root "arktos" in Greek, which means "bear" - appropriate for this polar bear expedition. And although the air is literally stinging our faces, it is a welcome reminder that indeed we are pressing north, and getting closer to polar bear country. Polar bears are found only in the Arctic, and their habitat is entirely linked to the Arctic sea ice ecosystem. However, today, Arctic ecosystems, from the tundra to wetlands and coastal areas, are undergoing major change due to warming global temperatures.
The Arctic CircleAt 6:00 AM the vezdekhod rolls to a stop. We burst out of our dark, den-like vehicle, and are blasted by gusts of bitter cold air. We are at the Arctic Circle!
The Arctic Circle, also known as the Polar Circle, is defined in several ways. Geographically, the "line" is drawn at the latitude of 66° 32' N but biologically, it's often the tree line that is used to delineate the Arctic. Politically, the Arctic is made up of eight nations that encircle the top of the globe. Russia, of course, occupies the largest portion of the Arctic, followed by Canada and the US.
Of course, all of these "lines" are invisible. However, here in this spot is one of the rare places on the globe where one can actually "see" the boundary. In the dim light of the morning, we see a huge metal arch in front of us, announcing our arrival at the Arctic Circle.
The word "Arctic" finds its root "arktos" in Greek, which means "bear" - appropriate for this polar bear expedition. And although the air is literally stinging our faces, it is a welcome reminder that indeed we are pressing north, and getting closer to polar bear country. Polar bears are found only in the Arctic, and their habitat is entirely linked to the Arctic sea ice ecosystem. However, today, Arctic ecosystems, from the tundra to wetlands and coastal areas, are undergoing major change due to warming global temperatures. The Arctic is extremely sensitive to even the slightest change, and temperatures in the Arctic have risen faster than the global average. Vegetation is shifting, shorelines are eroding and wildlife migrations are shifting in time and place.
After a few more hours of driving, we pull into Igor's home town -- Amguema. Amguema is a quiet little town with a population of about 2,000. It has a high school - a rarity in these parts -- with a dormitory for children from all over the north whose villages do not have schools beyond the fourth grade. I am constantly amazed by the high level of education in even the tiniest most far-flung locations. The WWF Kids' Clubs in Chukotka, which engage young people in summer nature studies as well as programs during the school year, demonstrate that despite many changes in Russia, there is still a strong educational system --- one of the positive legacies of the Soviet Union.
Amguema is also home to a number of reindeer herders, whose time in town alternates with long periods moving around the spacious tundra with their herds. Our driver Igor's wife Ludmilla is thrilled to see us and provides a massive feast upon our arrival. When Igor and Sergey have rested and refueled themselves and our vezdekhods, we are on the road again for our northern destination.
After a few more hours of driving, we pull into Igor's home town -- Amguema. Amguema is a quiet little town with a population of about 2,000. It has a high school - a rarity in these parts -- with a dormitory for children from all over the north whose villages do not have schools beyond the fourth grade. I am constantly amazed by the high level of education in even the tiniest most far-flung locations. The WWF Kids' Clubs in Chukotka, which engage young people in summer nature studies as well as programs during the school year, demonstrate that despite many changes in Russia, there is still a strong educational system --- one of the positive legacies of the Soviet Union.
Amguema is also home to a number of reindeer herders, whose time in town alternates with long periods moving around the spacious tundra with their herds. Our driver Igor's wife Ludmilla is thrilled to see us and provides a massive feast upon our arrival. When Igor and Sergey have rested and refueled themselves and our vezdekhods, we are on the road again for our northern destination.
Part 9: The US - Russia Polar Bear Treaty | Part 10: The road back | Part 11: Spotting reindeer | Part 12: Anadyr | Part 13: Last day in Chukotka
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