In the Amazon, a community uses tradition to fuel forest-friendly tourism

It wasn’t until Irenilse Batista Sousa researched her roots that she understood what it was to be Kumaruara.

Growing up in Vista Alegre do Capixauã, a village that can only be accessed by the waters of the Tapajós River, the now-chief knew her family and wider community were Indigenous, but they had long lost their language and were far removed from their traditional ways. “We wanted to value our Indigenous culture,” says Sousa. “And we wanted to go after what is ours and what we have the right to.”

It took three years of speaking with other Kumaruara people from neighboring villages and tracing their own families’ past to confirm what they already knew: They were Kumaruara. From there, they set out to reclaim what they had lost so they could pass it on to future generations, protecting it from disappearing again. During that process, they learned everything from songs, dances, and body painting to making traditional jewelry, bowls, and musical instruments.

Their pride in being Kumaruara returned, and with it a desire to share their culture with the world. They started welcoming tourists into their community, partnering with guides from the nearby town of Alter do Chão.

Women have been especially affected by the changes in Vista Alegre do Capixauã, which have allowed them more independence and leadership opportunities. Tourism has also offered an economic lifeline for young people, who used to see few reasons to build their lives in the place where they grew up.

“We always say to young people, ‘You have to be here by our side because we’re here now, but maybe tomorrow we won’t be,’” says Sousa. “‘Who is going to take care of this village in the future? It’s you.’”

With the support of WWF and Projeto Saúde e Alegria, the Kumaruara community has also been able to build lodging for guests to stay overnight, including a communal hammock room for those who want to bring their own to hang in the circular space. They also now have treated water, a professional kitchen that allows them to serve a traditional lunch with ingredients that come from their own gardens and river, and reliable internet, which allows them to more easily receive payments.